Vive la veggie-lution

Louise Tickle, Guardian

Despite vegetarianism now being a lifestyle choice for thousands who visit France every year, arriving at a chambres d'hote or restaurant and explaining that one of your party "est un vegetarian" is still pretty well guaranteed to provoke raised eyebrows and an amazed shrug, followed by swift recourse to the nearest box of eggs.

Some guesthouses however, have decided to buck the trend. Yet it seems that "les rosbifs" — despite their meaty moniker — are leading this culinary change, with just one French-run B&B making it onto the list. All have made a point of catering with considerable culinary flair not only for vegetarians' ethics but also for their tastebuds

The table d'hote at Le Gaudin isn't specifically vegetarian, but if guests explain that they don't eat anything with a face, then the entire four-course meal served to everyone staying that evening will arrive sans eyes, nose and mouth. Owner Clive's cooking is so delicious that it's unlikely any non-veggies will miss chomping down their usual meaty fare.

We ate a deeply flavoursome caramelised onion tart starter; followed by tomato, feta and artichoke filo pastry pie; a fine selection of local cheeses; and carpaccio of pineapple doused in a light syrup.

All this is served in a stunning renovated barn, open to the huge old wooden rafters. We were so full we barely managed to stumble upstairs to our spacious room with its balcony window, antique pine wardrobe and comfy bed.

· Room and breakfast costs €90 (£61) per night, four-course dinner including wine costs €30 (£20)
legaudin.co.uk, +33 (0)231 738870, email@legaudin.com