Gastronomic delights at Le Gaudin

Johanna Smith

 

I can think of literally hundreds of reasons for visiting Normandy, but top of the list has to come the cuisine. Next comes the ambiance, followed closely by the friendly welcome that seems indigenous to the area.

 

Imagine my joy, then, when I was able to bask in all three glories of the area when we visited Le Gaudin, an eighteenth century farmhouse lovingly restored by Clive and Denise Darlow. along with Scott and Stacey, who gave up their young lifestyle to help with the task. The house is set in four and a half acres of its own delightful woodland. Gorgeous accommodation that combines the best of bucolic comfort with a sense of style, and - most important - an opportunity to taste the best of what Normandy cuisine has to offer.

 

After a night on the cross channel ferry, it was a delight to drive along the  rich, rolling countryside from Le Havre, through the Calvados region to the Swiss Normande area. And even more of a delight to find that Le Gaudin really is as beautiful as its website suggests. A gem of a farmhouse, complete with oak beams, exposed stone and a minstrels' gallery, set in grounds that could have come straight out of a film set. We were welcomed by Denise and Clive and instantly succumbed to the charm of their home.

 

We had chosen Le Gaudin for the best of reasons - personal recommendation. So we knew in advance that the food was going to be something special. Imagine our joy when we learned that Scott, Le Gaudin's chef, was about to go to market and invited us to join him. What better way to get our bearings.

 

In conversation, it quickly became apparent that he has a real passion for food and the whole process of selecting ingredients, preparing and assembling a meal. He may be young but he has worked in a lot of high-profile country house hotels, including Llangoed Hall, Sir Bernard Ashley's Michelin starred hotel. It was there that he developed a particular interest in desserts, especially pastries, under the tutilage of Daniel James. He spent four years at Moore Place, in Apsley Guise, and stints at Kilworth House and Coombe Abbey, under John Foster. His main influence has been Charley Trotter, the American pastry chef. Later that evening, we were to learn how good Scott really is.

 

The area is billed as being ideal for fishing, canoeing, biking and hiking. Me, I'm more a browser. Browsing round the market was a perfect way to unwind. The cheese stalls were a special treat, where we were encouraged to test the Camembert and the Livarot. Delicious.

 

Back at the farmhouse that evening, we prepared for dinner. We had chosen a room with exposed beams and a French sleigh bed. Each of the six rooms has its own unique style, so much more sympetique than the sterile uniformity adopted by hotel chains.

 

We met the other guests at seven thirty and it was only then that it registered that the items of millitaria were all from the last two world wars. Clive is a military historian, which was a particular bonus for a father and son who were staying specifically to visit the Normandy battlefields.

 

And so to the real business - and we were not disappointed. For starters, Scott had prepared pan fried scallops with black pudding and pea purée. Next a refreshing Calvados sorbet followed by breast of duck with fondant potatoes and a port reduction. We just about had room for a selection of Normandy cheeses, followed by apple tart tartin with cinnamon ice cream. Oh, not to forget perfect coffee and home-made fudge. Are you getting the picture? Incredibly, this five course meal, including a half bottle of wine, cost just 25 Euro (around seventeen pounds at the time we were there).

 

Our dinner was enlivened by snippets from the other guests. One couple had spend their day at the Bayeux Medieval Festival, complete with jesters, knights on horseback, and fair damsels (some quite obviously distressed) roaming the cobbled streets of the town.

 

Even more impressively, the Place du Gaulle where an entire medieval village had been reconstructed. The father and son companions were planning a second day visiting war museums, but we had decided on a visit to the Château de Guillaume le Conquerant, with a lunch at La Faliase. A light lunch, of course, to make sure we do justice to our evening meal at Le Gaudin. One thing we all agreed was that we would be coming back next year.

 

Denise and Clive charge just ninety Euro  a night per room, including breakfast. Optional evening meal costs thirty Euro, including half a bottle of wine. The conviviality, ambiance and tranquility come compliments of the house.

 

Visit their website www.legaudin.com, where you can see for yourself what a beautiful place Le Gaudin is. For bookings, phone Denise on +33 (0) 231 738870. But book early!